Chemical Peels

Ah, the confusion about chemical peels.  As an Aesthetician, whenever I mention performing a chemical peel I can either visually see the client cringe or experience a moment of silence accompanied by a questioning look.  I can picture what is running through their head.  Layers of skin hanging off my face, bright red face with raw spots and scabbing. 

So, I thought I would help everyone out.  There are many chemical peels available to those who treat skin.  They run the gamut from non-invasive to very invasive.  The invasive peels could be considered a medical procedure and should only be performed in a physician’s office.

Chemical peels are comprised of a variety of various acids.  They are used to remove the top layer of aged or sun damaged skin as well as penetrate your pores and clean out dead skin cell build-up for those who suffer from acne.  Chemical peels are very beneficial for your skin.  They provide fresh new skin that is smoother and softer with a healthy glow as well as collagen stimulation and plumping of the skin .  They also allow the topical products applied afterwards to better penetrate your skin and do their job.  With some peels you may flake for up to 5 days and with others the peeling is non-visible.  All peeling can be controlled with moisturizers.

Before receiving chemical peels you should prepare your skin by using topical products which contain lesser amounts of one or more acids.  This is necessary to acclimate your skin to the procedure, causing less irritation.

Some of the acids used are mandelic, lactic, Trichloroacetic Acid (TCA), glycolic, salicylic, Retinoic Acids, kojic, azelaic, and Jessners.

Educate yourself and seek the knowledge of a professional.

Is This Skin Cancer Or Not?

As an Aesthetician, I get this question daily.  I had a client today who is prone to moles and was wondering if some of them might be cancerous.  You are your best defense in this area.  Know your body, inspect it regularly and have a professional screening once a year by a dermatologist.  This is no different than women receiving yearly mammograms and pap smears.  Do not wait until it is too late.  The reason you should know your own skin is that a dermatologist sees you once a year along with thousands of other patients and he/she is not going to specifically remember your skin.  If you have something that is changing on your skin, have it looked at.  Basal cell carcinoma is the least serious of skin cancers but can spread at the site and grow so that the area needing to be removed can be large if you do not catch it in time.  Melanoma grows in a different way.  It goes into your cells, your lymph system, blood and bones.  It can be at a serious stage before you know you have it. 

The ABCD's of skin cancer.  Asymmetry, Border, Color and Diameter.  Most melanomas are asymmetrical, their borders are uneven, their color is varied in shades and their diameter is usually larger than common moles. 

Squamous cell carcinomas usually start in the epidermis layers of your skin.  You might see scaly patches or raised growths in such places as your nose, forehead, hands or lips.  This can spread quickly and should be checked out.

Basal cell carcinomas often start as little bumps on your face, lips, around your mouth or ears.  They may be crusty or not heal and bleed.  You should have these removed as they can spread requiring a larger area to be removed.

How valuable is your life to you?  Don't put off having a screening and/or removal of suspicious moles or irregular skin lesions.  See your dermatologist today.

How Long Will the Results of my Treatment Last?

Have you ever asked this of your skin care professional? 

I'm sure most of us have as we are interested in knowing exactly what to expect from our treatment and how long will we notice the difference. 

Well, your skin is just like every other part of your body.  How long do you think your teeth would last if you only brushed them every now and then?  How long would your body stay fit and toned if you went to the gym a few times a year?

When you receive a professional skin care treatment you will notice the difference right away and it may last for a few days.  If you want long term results, you have to do the work.  What is more important is what you do at home on a daily basis.  I like to tell my clients it's like taking your skin to the gym.  If you treat it right, use professional grade products, drink plenty of water and protect it from the sun, it will treat you well. 

Your skin is what you present to the world every day.  Are you willing to do the work to present your BEST face?

Remember:  Skin - The Most Important Thing You Wear!

Healthy Skin

As I am preparing for a presentation on healthy skin some thoughts come to mind that I wanted to share.

Did you know that your skin is the largest organ in your body?  I'm not sure most people do know this.  Since it is our largest organ keeping it healthy would seem prudent.  Our skin protects us from infection, bacteria and toxins.  It is our first defense against infections entering our bodies. 

Now, of course, genetics play a big role in the skin you were born with.  But there are other things in our control that affect our skin.  Our overall health, exercise, nutrition and sun exposure are up to us.  These things will all factor in to how our skin ages.  We should hydrate our skin daily by drinking plenty of water and using a nourishing moisturizer. 

Here's to having good, healthy skin!

Chemical vs. Chemical Free Sunscreen

I tell my clients the number one thing to use on their skin is sunscreen.  If they are only going to do one thing, then sunscreen it is.  Especially for those who live in sunny climates. 

There are so many choices out there.  Do you know the difference between a chemical sunscreen and a physical blocking sunscreen?  Chemical sunscreens absorb into your skin and fight off the damage the sun's rays are doing while you are exposed.  Chemical sunscreens can take up to 20 minutes to penetrate your skin after applying them.  They may irritate your skin and have the potential to run into your eyes causing tearing.  Chemical sunscreens are the ones that contain scents, avobenzone, octyl methoxycinnamate, bensophenone and oxybenzone.  This does not mean they are bad for you or ineffective.  It just means they are different than a physical sunblock or chemical-free sunblock.  If you have sensitive skin, you should probably choose a physical or chemical-free sunblock.

Physical sunblocks do just that.  They reflect the sun from your skin rather than just fighting off the damage of the sun's rays.  Physical sunblocks are usually composed of micronized titanium dioxide, zinc oxide or a combination of both and usually contains no scent.  Years ago surfers and beach volleyball players would apply colored zinc oxide on their noses.  Not only did it totally block the sun from their nose it added a little pizazz.  Initially zinc oxide was very white, very thick and hard to rub in.  Now technology has made it much more user friendly.  Find one that says it is micronized and it will rub in, no white left behind, and you will be protected.

Choose the sunscreen that works best for you so that you will wear it every day no matter what.

Dermatologist vs. Aesthetician for Treating Acne

I understand why those who suffer from acne seek out a dermatologist.  After all, they are a medical doctor who spent years in school learning.  They are very important to our medical community.  They also accept health insurance and treating any health condition can be costly.  Why wouldn’t they be your first line of defense? 

Ask yourself these questions when considering consulting a dermatologist, or if you have worked with a dermatologist and feel you did not get the results you desired.

Did they take the time necessary to educate you about acne?  Meaning did they explain exactly what it is so that you could better understand the genetic disease you have.

Did they write you a prescription for oral antibiotics or topical products and send you on your way?

Did you feel that your skin condition was not taken seriously?

Did they explain exactly what the prescriptions were going to do in order to alleviate your acne?

Did they take photos of your skin?

Did they require you to see them again in two weeks so that they could see the results and form a plan to go forward?

Did they share with you that your skin may adapt to what they gave you and that at that time your routine would need to be adjusted?

Many of my clients have come to me after they have worked with a dermatologist or their primary care physician and did not get the results they were seeking.  They now have the belief that “nothing works.”

There are some valid reasons to seek the consul of an aesthetician or skin care therapist. 

The have gone to school to treat skin.

A good aesthetician will continue his or her education, just as physicians do.

They will usually take the time to educate you about acne and the entire process you will go through to clear it. 

They will take pictures so that as you go through the process of clearing your skin you have something for comparison.

They will follow-up with you on a bi-monthly basis until you achieve clear skin.

Your success is very important to an aesthetician.

Just some things to think about when seeking help for acne.

May all of you who suffer from acne get the results you desire – CLEAR SKIN!

So Many Acne Myths

First, nothing causes acne but there are things that can exacerbate it.  Acne is a genetic disease and you are born with it.  One of the important things I do in my practice is educate clients about all the myths surrounding acne.  Because these myths have been repeated for years, people believe them.  If you are going to clear your skin from acne, whether on your own, or with the help of a professional, you need to quit believing the myths.  I actually have clients repeat these myths to me all the time and they firmly believe them.  When someone has suffered for years and tried everything they usually are speaking from a place of what has and has not worked for them.  However, they may have not been using topical products correctly, they may have given up when it didn’t work right away because they did not possess the knowledge to use them in the correct manner or they were prescribed the wrong thing to successfully treat their acne.

Following is a list of the most popular myths:

Eating chocolate and greasy foods causes acne.

Too much or not enough sex causes acne.

Dirty skin and dirty hair hanging in your face causes acne.

Acne only affects teenagers.

Make-up will improve your acne.

There is nothing that will successfully treat acne.

I don’t really have acne, my complexion is just bad.

I hear this last one often and it’s never fun to inform someone that they actually do have acne, that it’s not just a complexion problem and that if they would start treating it right away they could stop the damage that might occur if it is left untreated.

Stop believing the myths so that you can successfully treat your acne and have clear skin.

Acne Scarring

Over the years in my practice I have had numerous clients inquire about acne scarring and what can be done for it.  That depends on what type of acne scarring you want to correct. 

There is the “pitted” scarring which means there has been tissue damage in the dermal layer of your skin.  Some of the terms are ice-pick, rolling and boxcar scarring.  This type of scarring can be difficult to correct as the tissue that was damaged due to an acne lesion has been destroyed.  When the healing occurs, your epidermal layer (the surface layer) has no alternative but to re-adhere to what is left in the dermal layer, creating the “dents” in your skin.  When someone promises you they can change this, be cautious and educate yourself.  Some acne sufferers have experienced significant improvement in their scarring with laser treatments that are complimented by dermal filler injections following the treatments.  The dermal fillers will lift the depressions in the skin so they do not appear to deep.  This type of treatment does require some down time where you do not want to go back into public for 7-10 days.

Discoloration of the skin, commonly called hyperpigmentation or dark spots, is another type of acne scarring.  This can, most of the time, be corrected with lightening agents or bleaching creams such as hydroquinone, mandelic acid, various chemical peels or microdermabrasion treatments.  This process often requires a series of treatments and patience.  If the damage is in the dermal layer (below the surface) and has been present for many years, you may have a tougher time treating it.  When treating this type of scarring it is imperative that the skin be protected at all times from the sun.

If you suffer from acne scarring, do your research, educate yourself and seek professional assistance.

Poly Cystic Ovary Syndrome and Acne

If you suffer from Poly Cystic Ovary Syndrome (“PCOS”) it is likely you may develop acne along with it.  An acne sufferer who has PCOS may find it harder to clear the acne.  Don’t give up!  See your physician for a medical diagnosis.  If you are diagnosed with PCOS you should share this with your skin care therapist.

PCOS means that you have a higher level of androgen (male) hormones in your body which is one of the reasons you may develop acne.  Topical products are the recommended treatment.

If you are having troubles clearing your skin with topical products a common drug your physician may prescribe is Spironolactone.  This can be used in combination with the topical products provided by your skin care therapist.  Spironolactone has anti-androgenic properties. It also decreases oil production.

Acne is a difficult condition to treat and is often exacerbated by PCOS due to the over production of androgen.